James Pyo

Guryong Village is an informal settlement on private land located in Seoul’s affluent Gangnam District. For a while, I had been reading about it and its plans for redevelopment. I just couldn’t believe such a place could actually exist within a modern urban metropolis among neighborhoods known for plastic surgery, luxury retail, expensive real estate, K-pop, and pretentious night clubs. It’s a place not even many locals are aware of due to its relatively isolated location blocked off by an eight-lane highway. I figured that my trip to Korea last month would be my last chance to see it with my own eyes before it’s gone. So, I made the trek off the beaten path to visit.

It appeared that the community had already been abandoned, in anticipation for its planned demolition and development of an apartment housing complex. I did not see a single person living there, which made it perfect for taking photos without causing a disruption. I did, however, see an abandoned cat. 😦

It was quite evident that the people, whom I was told were primarily seniors, lived an agrarian lifestyle. There were community farms, gardens, and even a market. As expected for a place built without any building codes, there was a slight risk to my personal safety given my limited mobility caused by my drop-foot. The terrain was rugged; pathways were narrow and there were tripping hazards everywhere. Let’s just say I had to move around very slowly.

Places like Guryong were more common across Seoul in the years following the Korean War. Most of them were displaced during the time leading up the 1988 Olympics when an effort was made to modernize the city – as is the case when cities host major global events. In fact, this community was originally established in the 1980s by people who had been displaced from Jamsil, which happened to be the location chosen for a major stadium. Now, appears they are on the move yet again.

To my knowledge, the residents have been offered social housing in the proposed apartment complex. While some were happy to take the offer, others have expressed a desire to instead have stewardship of the land.

Given that the community has no legal authority over the land, the looming redevelopment is inevitable. I will, nonetheless, be interested in seeing and hearing about it in my next visit to Seoul.